Watch This Before Buying A Ford 6.7 POWERSTROKE Diesel!

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https://thedpfdeleteshops.comWhat’S going on YouTube, really quick video today I have this 2013 F350 67 Power Stroke. I’Ve had it for about a year now, and I’ve had a decent amount of issues with it. I wanted to go over some of the common issues you can look for if you’re buying one of these trucks some things I like some things I don’t like, and some comment up grades that I think are a must. So, let’s get right into it. I don’t want this video to be too long.
I bought this truck with 330,000 k on it, so I put about 20,000 K just to give you guys a reference with the age and condition of this vehicle coming under the hood. I’M not going to talk about stock emissions. Everybody knows the issues with those, but one thing: that’s a must, in my opinion, the turbo 2011 to 2014. They have a dual Inlet and dual compressor turbo very problematic. I wouldn’t even consider running a truck with one of those turbos.
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This is a factory Ford, upgrade stock Turbo from a 15 and up truck swaps right in very clean install all Factory Parts, 100 % have to have this turbo. In my opinion, Garrett makes these turbos. So the stock, one that you don’t want is called gt35. This is a gt37, so that’s the upgraded part that you want. I do have the nice SP intake and the intercooler piping here this isn’t a necessity.
The trucks run pretty well without these and the stock plastic intake and everything, if you don’t have a crazy high horsepower tune or you’re, not hauling, really heavy loads all the time I wouldn’t worry about it, but if you are pushing the truck a little harder, the Stock intercooler pipe has a plastic fitting here that does like to crack break explode kind of cause, boost leaks, but not super common for the average person person. Everybody knows these high-press cp4 fuel pumps are prone to failure, but there are some really nice aftermarket kits. This is a SNS additional filter and it kind of plums into the return line off the cp4. So if you do have a cp4 failure, the metal from that will go straight into the filter and it doesn’t contaminate the rest of the fuel system. It is fairly affordable.
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It’S about 600 bucks, so that’s definitely a necessity on these trucks without that filter. If you have a cp4 failure, you’re going to be spending about 15 grand on the new pump, all new injectors drop, the tank clean out all the metal debris and it’s a nightmare while you’re under the hood. Looking at these vehicles check both the secondary and primary cooling systems if these are low, so you want to look at that level. Right here, make sure it’s nice and high if it’s below the ad mark really common failure on these the air to water intercoolers. I had to replace mine, it was leaking coolant into the intake and you’d notice.
A lot of smoke on cold starts if your engine’s burning coolant long term, it’s definitely not healthy for it. This is just a quick look on the inside of my factory intercooler pipe. When that intercooler was leaking internal, very very common failure, so make sure you check that secondary tank and now with the primary system. These trucks are very common for rad leaks, so mine just started leaking here the other day, and these RADS are expensive, 1,200 bucks. So take a really good look down the side of the tank here and mine’s leaking really bad, but you can’t see it from up top.
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You want to go underneath and look from the bottom. Look how bad that’s leaking very common. An issue dripping on the ground. So two expensive coolant repairs. There make sure you check the rad make sure you check that secondary cooling system.
I know it’s kind of hard to prove if that intercooler is leaking internally, but that secondary tank is a good indication of that now, while you’re inspecting these trucks for leaks, go underneath, and these oil pans are very common for leaking. So, let’s go under. Have a look mine is leaking, so it’s going to be hard to see in the video here, but you can see it’s dripping on the ground and you just want to get up there kind of look by that lower pan and you can see quite a bit Of oil up in there – and this is a big job – the [ __ ] – has to come out for that repair. So not many people reseal these pans because it is very labor intensive, but another common issue make sure you check it while you’re under here make sure you check the vacuum lines going to your hubs. These break all the time and you lose your auto four-wheel drive.
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So that’s one thing: I really like to check make sure your hubs aren’t locked, unlock them and see if the four-wheel drive works. If it doesn’t, you probably have a vacuum leak here somewhere, and I spent a lot of time replacing all these lines. I even had some lines up here by the little vacuum, solenoid and stuff, and it goes to a vacuum pump in the valley there on the front of the engine. So a lot of sources for vacuum leaks spent a lot of time on it and my Hubs still don’t work. So very common issue, see if those Auto hubs work.
If you have aftermarket hub caps like this, it can be kind of hard to check them, because most most people just keep them locked all the time. And then you won’t be able to tell inside, because the four-wheel drive will work. But the auto system does not again that can be something expensive to get into, because now I would have to pull apart the Hub and all the front end components replace every seal in there just for a chance to get this system working again and while we’re Talking about oil leaks, the stock, PCV or CCV the crank case ventilation system. The stock OEM system is a paper filter, that’s serviceable. Those paper filters get gummed up with oil and they get plugged and then, if you check for blowby you’ll, have a ton of blowby cuz the engine can’t breathe properly it’ll start to smoke blow out.
Seals you’ll have all kinds of other oil leaks, so a delete on that is a must. Now we have just a tube running down to the ground and those dump out quite a bit of oil on the ground as well. So I have the SP internal catch. Can you can kind of see that silver piece underneath I thought it was going to solve all my oil leaking issues? It slowed it down, but it really didn’t fix it so coming underneath the truck.
This is my PCV hose here. That’S venting to atmosphere, and you can see just how much oil and crap is all around here. This is an oil soer pad I have in there and it still doesn’t really matter. That’S how much oil I have leaking on the ground. Even with that internal catch can so, unfortunately, the stock CCV ventilation system sucks, and even these aftermarket delete kits they kind of suck too.
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So that’s something you just have to live with. Unfortunately, now moving on to other things that didn’t work on the truck when I bought it heated and cooled seats. So this is a loaded Lariat and when you hit the heated seat button, it would turn on. You wouldn’t hear the relays, click under the seat or anything you’d go to hit the cooled seats and they wouldn’t come on the display at all. So so you kind of had the illusion that the heated seats were working.
Cooled seats didn’t work. Let me show you what I found very common issue so coming over to the passenger side. Here, the heated and cooled module is under the seat here. So this guy right here, if you pull out that connector on the back, see that ground circuit there that black wire some of the insulation is missing off of it and it gets too hot and that ground circuit melts. So the terminal will be all burnt up inside the module and a lot of times you have to replace the module and that wiring harness going into the module.
So another very common issue on these trucks make sure you test the heated and cooled seats and make sure they’re, actually warming up and actually cooling. One last thing to check on the interior. Really quick is the HVAC crank your fan on the highest speed and make sure you have good flow coming out of the vents. These trucks? Don’T have a cabin air filter so on Reser mode it sucks air from the passenger side footwell here and if there’s a bunch of dirt or mud debris down here CU.
These trucks are usually used for work, so common all that dirt and stuff gets sucked up behind the glove box here and I’ll show you what happens your HVAC case right here. Your evaporator core lives right behind this and it gets damp when it’s in use and you’re running the AC, all that dirt just sticks to it and plugs it up. So if you see your HVAC case is taped up, looks like this: that’s somewhat normal cuz people cut a little square hole in here and they pressure wash it stick a garden hose in there get all the dirt and debris out and it drains below the the Truck so believe it or not, that is a normal repair on these, or else you have to pull the whole dash. So if you have no HVAC flow, you can kind of check behind there really quick, easy to do and, like I said, there’s two different air intakes so cycle between Reser. It sucks from the footwell here and then cycle fresh air and my fresh air intake was actually plugged cuz, there’s a little mesh up above the blower motor you’re, not going to be able to see it, but mine was plugged completely solid.
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I had to take the blower motor out and blow compressed air up in there and blow all that dirt and debris completely out of there bit of a Ford Quirk with this Dash setup in these trucks. But you can see the ghetto fix that they did on this somewhat. Normal doesn’t really affect performance, but something you can check easy enough, also check the backup camera. My backup camera did not work I’ll, show you what I found originally. I thought it was the camera itself inside the tailgate there, but it wasn’t.
It was actually this harness right here where it bends. You always open and close your tailgate. This harness flexes right here and I had a whole bunch buch of broken wires corrosion and that backup camera did not work at all. So make sure you check that again, very common issue. So that’s pretty much all the issues I’ve had over the last year.
They all are fairly common, so you should be checking those if you’re looking at one of these trucks and a couple things that I don’t like about the truck fuel mileage. I know you don’t buy these trucks for fuel mileage, but I’ve had one ton Duramaxes in the past and they all get way better mileage than this thing. So it’s not really a fair comparison, because this is leveled and it’s on 35 in tires 12. 1. 12.
In wide, I know, they’re not great for fuel mileage, but it’s still worth noting. This truck gets about 14 L per 100 empty and if I hook up to even a small trailer 3,000 lb, even I hauled a U-Haul with my Victory Motorcycle there. So couple thousand PBS – if that I was averaging 17 L per 100, doing the speed limit, so horrible fuel mileage on these things for a diesel quick shot of that trailer. So you can see just how small it really was, but to be fair, they are bigger trucks. The cab is way bigger, very spacious, compared to my durmax, so a little bit of a trade-off there and on top of the bad fuel mileage, the tank is very small.
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It’S about 80 l, so my range is horrible, especially if you’re hauling, not the end of the world, but just an inconvenience. I don’t know why one ton trucks like this have such small tanks. Another thing I don’t like about these trucks is the maintenance. I spend a lot more on maintenance on this truck compared to my Duramaxes, something as simple as fuel filters. This truck has two.
You spend couple hundred bucks on those from the dealer, whereas my Duramax, I would spend 60 bucks 80 bucks on that fuel filter engine oil changes. This truck holds 3 l more than my Duramaxes. So that’s not really a big deal a little bit more expensive, but the oil filter is way more expensive. That’S a 70 or $ 80 oil filter, whereas my durmax was 25 bucks. So just little things here and there that are way more expensive on this truck and simple things like diff gear oil, the rear diff takes 75 by 140 weight oil, so kind of a specialty weight there, not a lot of people stock that and you do spend A lot more money that that oil is about 40 bucks, a liter from the dealer, where again my Duramaxes, they took 75 90 gear weight, so very common oil.
That oil is used in almost everything and it’s cheap so that pretty much wraps up this video and with all that being said, I do really enjoy this truck. It’S a pleasure to drive, has tons of power will haul anything. You need it to very nice interior compared to Duramaxes and Dodge of the same year. So it’s compromised, like anything, no vehicle’s perfect, they all have their issues and I just wanted to make this video sharing my experience with the last year of owning this truck and maybe try and help save you guys some Hassle and headache if, if you’re looking to Get into one of these, so thanks for watching, if you did get some value, give it a like and share cheers guys. 

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