Today, on top garage, we’re going to take a look at the thing that caused the 67 power strokes, the most harm CCV box, the number one overlooked part on these things. Having problems we are back with the 2012. Is this a 12 single cab, 67 Power Stroke? Now I’ve been driving the Duramax – I haven’t been driving this thing all that much, but it fired right up today. It’S running great, it’s one of the best driving trucks in the game, 11 to 14 power stroke that is with a tune, but this truck is back in the shop today at top garage and we are going to talk about one of the main things that causes These trucks harm, in other words, oil, leaks leakage, oil drips seepage all right, so I deal with a lot of 67 power Shooks we’re always getting them into the auction.

I’M always crawling over these things, we’re always building them, fixing them modifying them, messing with them. All of the above six seven power stroks right in my time of doing that it seems that 100,000 mile is the mark for the crank case filter. Now it could happen earlier. It could happen later. It kind of all depends, but I’m seeing it right around 100,000.

So if you crawl, underneath these trucks, you’ll see a little bit of oil seepage, slash residue on the bell housing where it meets the engine um, you know coming from up top, it could be coming from the front. It could be just oil seepage coming from somewhere. In nine times out of 10, the truck probably has a 100,000 just over just under right around 100,000, and it probably has a plugged CCV filter. Now it’s that little black box that sits up next to the fuel filter. You can actually see when they get plugged.
They expand, I just did a 2018 and it had seepage all over. There was oil residue all over the whole thing on the bottom. You know that could be upper oil pan. It could be a number of other things but check the CCV filter and it was actually expanded. So what they do is they get so plugged up that they swell up, and they just kind of get big so what’s happening.

Is that crank case gas? The crank case pressure in the bottom end of the engine it has to go somewhere and how Ford has it it comes out of the top driver side valve cover. It goes into a big box. It filters it out through there. You know enough and then it reroutes the gases after it separates the oil back in in front of the turbo.

Now I don’t even want to hear that that oils, the turbo, don’t even mention it in the comments I’m going to look in there, I’m looking so over time that oil separation deal in the Box it gets plugged and that gas can no longer escape the bottom End, so what do you have now? You have positive pressure in the bottom end and positive pressure in the bottom end is no go. That is putting excess pressure on the seals front, main seal, rear main seal oil, pan gaskets any weak link. It’S going to find and it’s going to push out that gas CU. It has to go somewhere, thus creating that oil residue Around Upper oil, pan gasket, lower oil, pan gasket rear main seal front main seal any seal.
So this truck here, the 2012 F350. It has 105,000 Mi on the clock and it’s time for the CCV reroute. What I do is I don’t play games with replacing the Ford factory one I just get rid of that and I vent it out. Allegedly, okay, so there’s a couple ways you can go about doing it, there’s a whole bunch of kits on the market, but the best one hands down. Nonbiased is the SP CCV reroute.

Now this kit, here I have a internal catch. Can we’ll touch on that? Just in just a second, but it looks like this cheese grater looking deal so we’re going to set that aside for now and the CCV reroute is very simple: it’s essentially four pieces. You have a block off. This is for the oil drain.

This comes out of the factory box. You have a vent routing deal with a Venturi in here. So if you look at this, it’s cone shaped see how it’s cone shaped in there that helps with any oil coming out. It hits kind of this side and it’ll stop and it’ll run back down only allowing the gases to escape through the middle. So your vent piece and real, quick, Shameless plug first link description, get the CCV kit for your 67 power choke.
If you don’t have one, you have a cap for the inlet right in front of the turbo to cap off where the old box routed into and then you have a hose. Obviously you have some O-rings and some Hardware, but this is the gist of the kit. So what we’re going to do is we’re going to get in here and we’re going to pull out the factory box. It’S very straightforward! I’M going to show you how to do it here in a second and we’ll see what it looks like so driver side, engine bay, hot.

This is disastrously dirty we’re going to do an engine bay detail after this just because whoa um, so anyways driver side engine bay. You have hot side this ugly, looking pipe, you have F fuel filter. Then you have CCV box. So it’s that big deal back there and there’s there’s two ports. Underneath this box, you have the rear Port, which is the actual vent where the gases are escaping.

Then you have an oil drain which is about at the front of this box right underneath of it, and then you have the hose right here. This plastic tube looking hose that runs right over in front of the turbo. Okay, okay, so very straightforward, not rocket science. Um couple bolts: you got to get the fuel filter out of the way, but this is the thing that gets overlooked more times than not in the 67 poh world that gets plugged. It puts added positive pressure in the bottom end, blows out your seals, and now you got a leaky 67, all right, so Tech tip real, quick there’s.
Only one bolt, that’s kind of a pain. So you have this fuel line here, it’s a hard line, it comes through and It Bolts right where my finger is right. There you see that hole, so you got to pull that bolt out that secures the fuel line and you kind of just got to pry the fuel line up and out of the way just a little bit, because there’s a bolt directly under where it goes from Hard to soft line there, the bolt the last bolt there’s a bolt directly under that. So what I do is I just take that bolt out. I pry this up just the hair and then I take the 10 mil with an extension, and I just shove it down.

Underneath of that line, and I kind of use the socket to pry up just a little bit, you don’t want to go crazy. You want to pry it up just enough to be able to get that socket onto that bolt and then you can pull it out, but that would be the only one that’s hard on this whole situation. Other than that, it’s super easy all right. So this one actually didn’t fight me at all, so I normally give it the old colge try first and I try to get it off the right way. So this is just a lefty Loosey deal.

You turn this plastic deal. You see these locking tabs in here. You turn this Loosey and it lets the Locking tabs free turn it loose, pull it off. That’Ll come off the intake tube right in front of the turbo, and then this just is pushes onto the box. So you can pull this out.
That way, you don’t got to mess with any of your fuel lines undo this Lucy Lefty Lucy boom, pull it off, pull this off the CCV box, now you’re ready to pull the Box. I left my power ratchet at the house, okay, all right! So with the box out, you can see the rear Port against the firewall. That is where the gases come out and then you have your oil drain feed back into the engine right right here.

That’S where the oil goes back in we got oil at the gates, um, I’m not going to spray anything on there. Now cuz, you don’t want to contaminate the oil. What I do is I just wipe it off. Put the plugs in then spray it. So the Venturi fitting with the hose will go on the back side back there and then the plug will go right there and then you cap off the intake there and that as simple as that, so I did pull the fuel filter housing.

It was just a lot easier on these trucks. You can kind of rip it out, but it takes a second just to pull that out. That’S just a couple. 8 mm bolts, 113 on the front side, pull that out, get it out of the way and then the Box can come out free and clear. So there you go it’s that simple.
I had this out in literally 15 minutes and we’re going to put the plugs in back and we’re going to put the cap on in the rear and then we’re going to put the plug in right there and then we’re going to cap off the intake Port Right right in front of the turbo and we’re done so look if you look in the turbo here, you can actually see oil on the face of the turbo, so that would be all coming out of the turbo. This is Hot Side, so all that oil is going into that Port there hitting the compressor wheel coming out and that that’s what your truck is breathing with. It’S mixing oil soaked air with EGR – and in my opinion I mean it’s not my opinion. It’S a factual statement, that’s just a terrible combination for these trucks to be efficient on it. It’S absolutely out of control and that’s the world we live in.

So this would be the plug for the return side. This is going to go in the back against the firewall. You have your hose that connects to this. It goes up over the brake. Booster I’ll show you that on the install and then we’re going to be done.

So a quick note, the big deal with these with these kits the SP kits, is they use like an actual oil rated line hose? So this is a firm sturdy hose a lot of the other Cheapo Chino markets. Deals on the market use a cheap hose and this can get pinched easily, depending on your routing, depending where you’re taking this. Because, honestly, it’s up to you, you can take it really wherever you want, I usually brought it right up over the brake booster. It creates a nice Arc and then I run it straight down through there and I jam it a hole in the frame.

So all the exhaust gases will be going into the frame because, if not, you know you’ll be smoking. You’Ll be huffing out that fumage right down there kind of where this hose is it’ll, come out right there if you’re had a drive-through window, whatever all that crank case gas will just be coming up and going right in the drive-through window and it stinks. You know it’s it’s it’s smelly. It’S kind of nasty and people freak out they’re, like dude, your truck’s huffing smoke with the hex up. It’S a normal is thing!

That’S why I just put it in the frame, and it sends all that oil oil residue air into the frame, but this hose is nice, because if you crimp this off, if this gets pinched, I did it before your truck will be huffing out oil through the Exhaust because if it’s Ultra blocked it’ll find the next weakest link, which sometimes will come out through the turbo. So all that turbo oil will back feed through the turbo, because pressure will be coming up. The to the the oil drain, cuz back pressure from the crank case, will be coming up the oil drain and it’ll. It won’t let the oil from the turbo drain out and then it’ll end up seeping past the seals in the turbo and you blow it out. Your exhaust, so you do not want to crimp this hose.

You want a nice hose all right. So here’s what it looks like with the adapter and plug installed. It’S a 5 mm Allen, and then I did those two bolts back there, because I’m going to try this truck without the internal catch can internal catch can sitting over there still now, I would highly recommend putting that in, but on this truck here the 2012. I want to see if I get any oil drips out of the hose without that um, so those are both in now whenever you’re putting the back one in it is a o-ring faced sit seat, it seats on an O-ring. Okay, it doesn’t go in the O-ring.
Sits on top of that flange in the rear, so whenever you’re tightening those down you got to do it even you got to go backside front side, backside front side and suck it down onto the face, even because, if you tighten down one side, you’ll see it It’Ll be cocked, and then, if you tighten down this side, you’ll have that outer rim of the O-ring pinched. What I always do is I just go down evenly that way you get a nice flat seal on that O-ring, not a huge deal. It’S just how I do it and then this just simply pushes right down into that hole boom, and you have your bolt down underneath that hard line um Hardline Mount is back in, and then I put the cap on the intake tube and I put a zip Tie on it totally not necessary, I just put a zip tie on it, just because you do not have to you can just kind of shove that on and be done with it. So now we’re ready for fuel filter housing Mount to go back on and then cold side and then hose so after I get everything connected is when I spray it down with carb cleaner to clean it um. So the hose I didn’t take it up over the brake booster on this one.

There was a perfect routing straight down through there that I took, as you can see it straight down through that hole, and then it’s going to come up and sit right on that. Back nipple with a hose clamp, maybe if the camera will focus so before I clean this hot side. Look at all that oil in there there is so much oil in here, it’s crazy. So this is all coming out of the turb turbo. So you can.

Just imagine what the rest of the piping looks like the intercooler the whole deal with all of that oil, all right! So I gave it to you A wiiz Wheel, quick shine. You know the old 299. I don’t know it looks a lot better than what it did all right. So final installation’s done, we got that snap back on the hot side goes on real easy it just Clips on with the uh Quick Connect ring on the compressor housing and then goes down very, very standard um the hose uh.

This is how I’m going to leave it. It is on the back. Adapter deal comes up and over on this side of the brake booster goes down, and then I wrap it on the inside of the frame, rail and I’ll. Go underneath and show you real, quick um, but everything else is button up: fuel filter, housing’s back in everything’s torqued. All the fuel lines are on moving down underneath of the truck, so that oil, you see, is just oil from the uh oil drain Port.

It just leaks a little bit as you pull that off, so I brought this hose on the inside of the frame rail jammed it in that hole right there, and then it just runs on the inside of the frame rail. Since I did have the fuel filter out the lines exposed, I am going to Prime the system just a few times, and then we are going to crank it. The only thing you really want to check for here is make sure O’s not speed out of that Port uh. You got a seal on that back one and no that’s really. All we had off very straightforward installation took me about.

I don’t that way down there about an hour cing around so an hour couple sockets couple handes and uh boom. There, you go yep, he’s blowing, so I’m going to keep an eye on that to see. If uh, I get any oil out without the internal catch, can I just want to see where this truck is and then I’ll put that in later, but I’m going to run it for a couple miles with no um internal catch? Can we’re going to see what’s going to go on and then I’m going to put that in just just for my own curiosity but y hes and kink we’re flowing out of there all right, so CCV reroute is installed. This is the very one number one Overlook thing in my opinion, other than a disaster prevention kit that is overlooked on these 67s that actually causes them legitimate harm like this is not a clickbait video.
This is legit. Here’S the Box very straightforward, two bolts in the rear, one on the one on the bottom side, which would be up close to the battery and then one on the top side, which would be towards the Center Valley of the engine. Try this puppy out. It comes straight off and then I showed you earlier with the the hose adapter how it is just a lefty Loosey. You turn it left.

It releases those locking tabs and you can just pull this straight off of the intake. This one was actually the easiest one. Sometimes I don’t know if these break – I don’t know, but this one was super easy to turn and pull off, and then it just pulls off of the Box on this end, so there you go, we’re done. Ccv or internal catch can is not in yet we’re going to run it a couple hundred miles, and then I’m going to put this in later. So we’re going to see if that drips oil inside that frame, rail, ah