HOW TO DELETE THE EGR COOLER ON 2017/2018/2019 FORD F250 F350 6.7 POWERSTROKE
hey how’s it going guys. Uh woody’s workshop pretty much. I’Ve worked in the automotive industry for the past 10 plus years.
I’Ve acquired a lot of knowledge uh. The focus of this channel is going to be pretty much to pass that knowledge on to you and all the do-it-yourselfers out there. Hopefully it will save you. Some bucks along the way – and maybe you learn something here or there. So if you like the video and you like the content, please you know hit that like button subscribe to the channel and uh, i hope you enjoy all right so today we’re going to be installing a egr block off plate kit for a 2017 uh f350 with The 6.
liter diesel i purchased this kit from uh tom nash at uh diesel race kits on ebay, uh. It’S pretty much a budget egr block off blake uh plate kit. It’S not a doesn’t. Have the fancy uh pass through like the no limit fab kit or anything like that, but i’m a simple guy and i don’t really feel that i need any of that so um, here’s the truck, it’s a 2017 f-350 eight foot bed and believe it or not. That truck does fit in that little ass garage, it’s close, but i’ll set up the tripod and get a little video of that, squeezing in there.
So all right, so we’re ready to start all right. So the first thing you’re going to want to do is you’re going to want to get your truck really hot, get it up to operating temp. You know drive it around the block a couple times, and what you’re going to want to do is these bolts down here right there and right there are prone to breaking so what you’re going to want to get is you’re going to want to get some type Of penetrating oil, whether it’s you know a pb blaster or something like this crest, rust deck and you’re going to want to just spray those bolts and you might, you might have to go back a couple times over and you know it might take a couple days. I’Ve heard of a couple people spraying those bolts over and over throughout the week, just to get that oil down in there into the threads and help loosen up any rust. Or you know just pretty much break those bolts up, because this inside bolt is really really prone to snapping on disassembly, so anything you can do to assist with that is going to be a key that wasn’t too bad uh.
What you saw me do there is on that inside bolt when i was initially trying to loosen it counterclockwise it wasn’t really going. I could feel you know quite a bit of tension, so what i did is i went ahead and flipped my ratchet around and bumped. It clockwise to try and just reverse the threads a little bit, tighten it up and then break it free and uh. Luckily that was successful. Applause, so there it is all right.
So i’m going to go ahead and remove the top half of this air box just to give me enough space when pulling the cooler out that way, i’m not fighting it so flip this around to get a little bit easier access to the connector for your mass Airflow sensor there it is, and now we can go ahead and get this out of the way all right. So now i’m going to go ahead and get these coolant lines out of the way um we’re going to be bypassing this, since we’re going to be eliminating it since it’s a part of the egr cooler, we’ll just be bypassing it from here to here. So i’m going to go ahead and show you how i’m going to do that just going to go ahead and use a pair of dikes cut, these clamps make sure nothing falls into the intake. Obviously, let’s go ahead and cut those off there. We go remove those kit’s going to come with a smaller hose barb and two smaller hose.
Clamps give these a little twist there we go. Try to limit our mess here, go ahead and slide that in there slide our hose clamp on pop off this other side slide our barb in. I need our second hose clamp there. We go all right so now that we’ve got the coolant lines bypassed over here. Um we can go ahead and start to remove the actual exhaust pipes of the egr cooler.
We’Re going to want to save these gaskets as well. They do get reused, so you’re going to want to go ahead and save these there’s the two bolts we got earlier. The two here and then there’s also a bracket located right here, go ahead, just like that. So this pipe here there is a egt exhaust gas temperature sensor, uh probe the connector is down here. Let me see if i can shine a light on that.
The connector is right there. It is clipped into the bottom of the intake there just disconnect that then you’re going to want to pop that connector off of there. There we go that slides right off and now we’re ready to remove this pipe. So one more back there we go and you’re also going to need to save these gaskets as well, because they will be reused on both sides. So once you get those exhaust pipes off, it’s a good time to take a break, and one of the big benefits of living in kansas city is awesome.
Barbecue, oh yeah, would you look at it? Look at that [, Music, ], um, hell, yeah, hell, yeah, hell, yeah, all right! So we’re back from lunch! Now we’re ready to do pretty much the most difficult part of the job which is actually unbolting and removing the cooler itself. So the first thing we’re going to want to do is we’re going to want to uh unclip this heater hose right here, it’s fairly simple to do.
You have two locking tabs one on each side of that hose. If you have a pocket, screwdriver or a small flat head, you can. You can push in the clip one side at a time while you’re pulling on the hose itself and it’ll eventually come free and you can pop it off there. The only reason we have to remove that is because it it overlaps the egr cooler and prevents us from actually being able to lift the cooler up off of the studs. So one of the first things we have to do is remove these eight millimeter bolts off the front of the uh egr cooler and they hold the harness onto it.
They’Re eight millimeter, [, Music, ], there’s two eight millimeter bolts. That’S all it is that will allow us to free this harness from the front of the uh from the front of the egr cooler all right. So now we’re going to go ahead and disconnect all the other uh electrical connectors and vacuum lines off the top of the egr cooler. These most, these connectors are fairly easy to take apart, for example, this one here, there’s just a little red safety. Lock you push that down, then you use a pocket screwdriver a pick to lever it up and it disconnects just like that.
So so, pull this cool line up out of the way it’s going to leak a little bit of coolant as you drop it down, but nothing to worry about [, Music ], so so all right so from there that’ll give us access to the bolts in the Very back of the egr cooler all the way in the back here. There’S a 10 millimeter uh nut on a stud that holds a bracket for a pressure sensor, so you’re going to need a more likely a quarter, inch uh 10 millimeter on a swivel. Something like that similar to this [ Applause, ], something allow you to get back there a little bit hard to reach careful, not to drop it and there it is set that aside, that’ll allow you to lift the bracket up and off of the stud all right. So once you get uh, there’s seven bolts, holding the egr cooler in there are two 13 millimeters with studs on the top there’s two shorter, eight millimeters and then there’s three long, eight millimeters one on each side and one in the center just behind the egr. The actual valve actuator itself um, once you get those up, you’re gon na need to use a pry bar or a flathead screwdriver, or something similar to free the egr cooler off of the cylinder head.
So i just pried right here off the throttle body. As you can see, and here the coolant is currently draining down into a pan. I have down under uh out of the truck so now that that’s free we’re ready to pull it out of there all right. So there you go, that’s the removal process um, it is a little messy. I probably should have drained the coolant, but you know it happens.
A little bit, uh managed to keep the truck dry but uh. I can’t say the same for the floor. So yeah we got a little bit of cleanup. You know a little spill, no biggie um, but yeah. Now we’re ready to go ahead and start installing the uh block off plates and everything all right.
So here is the cooler uh once it’s removed from the truck. I’M just gon na do a little overview on the uh bolts. You have to remove to get it out of the truck. There are three long, eight millimeters this one, this one and this one right here and they all look just like this. You then have two medium length, eight millimeters one here one over here and then you have two 13 millimeters.
These are the hardest to get they’re in the back towards the firewall of the truck um. This one is a little bit different. Like i mentioned earlier, it does have a a bracket on it that has a 10 millimeter nut holding it on. So you will have to take that 10 millimeter nut off prior to being able to uh reach the 13 millimeter uh hex head. So those are the seven bolts that need to be removed in order to uh remove the egr cooler from the truck yep.
Okay. So now we’re going to want to go ahead and remove this egt sensor, probe from this section of exhaust pipe we’re going to be transferring it over to this uh this block off plate. Here you might want to just wipe off the uh, all the carbon buildup and everything off the end of this probe. Just for good measure. It is a tapered seat.
So when you do uh secure it into the new block off plate, you just want to make sure that that tapered area doesn’t have any big carbon chunks or any build up there. You don’t want to over tighten this just nice and snug. It’S fine and we’re ready to uh install that in the vehicle. Now all right, so now we’re gon na uh off camera. I just removed the 90 degree rubber vacuum elbow that goes to the actual valve of the egr valve.
You just want to go ahead and pop that off and put the uh cap. That’S supplied with your block off plate kit, just want to cap that vacuum line off and then later on, we’ll tuck it off to the side somewhere and probably zip tie it up. Nice and neat um we’re ready to go ahead and pop the block off plates on we’re going to go ahead and put this one in first. It’S also a good idea to put a little bit of anti-seize on these bolts just in case. If you ever need to disassemble it later on down the road you won’t.
Hopefully you won’t run into any uh seized, bolts or anything like that uh all right now. We have the block off plate for up here, and it is where i put it so that one right there with the reused factory gasket just going to go ahead and [ Music ], make sure it’s nice and tight all right, so the last block of plate. We have is the coolant block off plate and, as you see it, has these installation dowels for when you’re, installing the uh or removing installing the egr cooler. Also, the diesel rates kits block off plate has the holes for the dowels just want to make sure this? Is nice and clean make sure your o-ring isn’t completely crushed or anything like that?
Wipe down that surface you want to blow out these thread holes as well. Just make sure there’s no residual coolant pulled up in there or anything like that. I think this one is yeah, this one’s drilled, all the way through, so you don’t have to worry about on this one, but this one does bottom out in the valve cover. So you probably want to blow that out and just make sure there’s no coolant pulled in there and we’ll just go ahead and line that up [ Music ] throw our screws in there. Oh, so plug in our temp sensor, slide it into the bracket right there.
It’S a little snug, but it’s fine and all right so that pretty much is it. That’S uh the install of a egr delete, slash block off plate kit on a 2017 and up four six seven diesel. If you’re fairly mechanically inclined, you can probably do it on your own by yourself in your garage there’s, not really any special tools needed. The only thing i i would mention is that you need to be extra cautious when removing these screws, especially the inside screw. Like i mentioned previously for that exhaust pipe because they’re prone to break so just really take your time and be patient and don’t overdo it and you should be fine.
The future of the channel, i’m probably going to be doing uh not just stuff on this truck, but i’m going to be doing a lot of different vehicles. I primarily work on european cars and bmws and um used to be in the race cars a little bit, but i’ll probably be doing some work on this, which is a 2009 uh, 4.8 x5. It needs valve seals i’ll, probably be making some videos on that as well, and i recently purchased a uh 2011 335 diesel. Unfortunately, i’ve already uh fully deleted this car, so it no longer has a dpf the scr or anything like that.
It’S got a jr 2.8 tune on it um. I would have liked to have made some videos on on that process, but unfortunately i didn’t have a camera at the time, but who knows you know maybe in the future might do some upgrades to this thing? Maybe hybrid turbos, bigger fuel pump, we’ll see we’ll see what i can we’ll see what i can get away with, but uh that’s pretty much it i. I hope you found this video helpful and hopefully it encourages you to take on take on a bigger project and if you like, the video, please subscribe i’ll, be putting out some more content, hopefully in the near future.
So thank you have a good one.